VampyrByte

Ok, so the problem is that whenever i set the CPU clock in the BIOS, even if i set the FSB to +1Mhz when i reboot the system it would do the Dual BIOS recover thing, fart about for a few seconds and then it would come back, with default settings in the BIOS. However if i set everything in the M.I.T section ofthe BIOS manually, and up the voltages by 1 notch for everything, it still doesent post, but gets far enough not to evoke the BIOS recover thing. Which is equally a pain, as i have to get my hands dirty and reset the CMOS settings with the jumper Gigabyte put, very kindly, on the board, but with nothing to short it out with, so i end up closing the circuit using the pin off a bloddy plug, but thats for another time.
Anyway, if software overclocking was impossible, i would probably just accept that i bought a right mental patient of a rig and wait until the next one. However using Gigabytes OC'ing tool, i can hit 333FSB with the RAM then a 825 (somehow) Which was stable today for 10 hours on Prime95 (Blend, Multicore), While at the same time my Geforce was folding@home. I know that 10 hours stable is not 100%, but it cant do 15 seconds with the OC set in the BIOS. so something tells me its not your traditional stabilty problem.

Ok ill post some more detailed specs here:
Intel C2D E7200 Stock Cooling.
Gigabyte GA-P35-S3G Motherboard
Kingston HyperX RAM, 4GB (1GB x 4) 5-5-5-15 2T 2.1v 800Mhz (Stock Spec)
Palit Nvidia Geforce 9800GT
Bios Version F5a, have tried all to no avail, excpet F5b, which i will try in the next few days when i can be arsed to find a floppy disk
Windows Vista Ultimate x64

I can post anymore information anyone wants in order to help me solve this.

Thanks,
JiM

Mac Daddy

My GA-X38-DQ6 also has Dual BIOS and I have never had to manually reset the BIOS to defaults. If you get playing with memory timings, etc sometimes it might take several reboots to engage the Dual BIOS default settings. (or possibly resetting the PSU)

As I have said before i have also changed every setting in the BIOS that I could think of and Giga changes one in Auto voltage that makes the only real stability change. PCI-E overvoltage to max you can leave the rest at Auto and its stable. I am not sure what this voltage is but I think its tied into the MCH bus which runs the RAM and video. Whether it is a direct voltage adjustment or part of a set I am not sure because I have found no way to measure it.

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

[hobo]eclipse

maybe since you are running 4x1 gb of RAM the northbridge/MCH needs a tad more voltage. it is common to have to up the MCH voltage wern running 4x1, rather than 2x2.

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VampyrByte

Interestingly, when i manage to change settings as to not evoke the BIOS recovery, the computer just grinds to a halt, usually with the screen filling with random characters. and eventually stopping, forceing me to reset, where it will continue to do the same thing until i reset the CMOS using the jumper.
I had also upped all the voltages by one step, inclusing the MCH voltage, which was at +0.1V, maybe this isnt enough im not sure and dont wish to push voltages too much through the northbridge as it is passivly cooled. Yeah i know thats not good.
I've heard about issues when overclocking with 4 RAM chips, but i did have this problem when i only had 2.
I've heard about the Intel Speedstep thing causing issues with OC'ing, but discounted this as i not seen anyone with issues as wierd as mine by using this. I will try turning off some of these power-saving nicetys next time i reset.
Thanks guys

Mac Daddy

No worries on the help lets get it solved for ya

Odd if I run into an issue with an overclock that the Giga gods "approve" beyond the Dual boot it usually freezes or crashes(Usually OS or memory). Upon hard reset the system boots to the overclocked values no need for the jumper.

I noticed you are using a stock CPU cooler what are your load temps and also your ambient mobo temps?

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

VampyrByte

With the 3.16Ghz software OC, Everest reports 60DegC on both cores. Board temps at 36degC. Will take stock temps if you think that would be helpful. but i dont restart my computer often, but will do it specially for this if you think its needed.
Interestingly the computer has been idle for about 10 minutes as i finish this post and everest reports 43DegC and 29C for the board.

Mac Daddy

Hmmm on the reboot that shouldn't be needed I don't think Bro. On the temps they are a bit high have you thought of picking up an aftermarket CPU cooler?

Coolers like the Katana2 and Hyper212 are in the 20-30 dollar range and make a huge difference in temps. Not a complete solution but perhaps a start because if you are going to be overclocking decent cooling is always recommended.

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

VampyrByte

I like the look of the Hiper212, especially as it can have 2 fans, It looks like it will get a little close to my PSU fan with 2 fans on it, but it shouldnt be an issue. Will probably getting one when i get paid. Would it be worth buying the Corsair Memory cooler or a active cooler for the northbridge?

Mac Daddy

Hmm depends on the orientation of the cooler. I had mine running towards the rear of the case but my PSU is bottom mounted. The only issue I had was the heatsinks on the OCZ RAM I just moved them to slots 2 and 4.

What case are you using?

On the memory and chipset cooler I have an OCZ ram cooler I use on certain builds here and for 12 bucks it works great. Anything to bring those ambient mobo temps down is good even just an extra fan blowing on the chipset helps.

I took some pics of the build I am playing with now I will post them up on "Show Your Rig Off" in a bit

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

VampyrByte

I dont actually know what case im using. I recieved a computer as a gift about 2 years ago, and the only remaining parts are the case and the HDD. I'm looking at getting an Antec case, i think the 300.
I uploaded a picture of the motherboard here.
Judging from the sizes from your pictures i think it will go in there if i get it to blow air towards the PSU it should be fine. Or would i be better mounting it blow into the back of the case?
Now im talking like ive bought one! The pictures a bit blurry, but its late, im tired and couldnt find my dads DSLR so had to use an old crappy camera.

EDIT: yes that is parcel tape. Professional i know

Mac Daddy

On parcel tape whatever works man lol

On the cooler I would strongly suggest running it towards the back of the case. As I mentioned in another thread anything vented through that ingoing 120mm PSU fan ultimately leaves the case via the 80mm fan in the PSU. So venting 2 x 120mm fans through it would degrade the coolers performance.

I used this orientation for the Whisper case because it has no top or side fans and then found it worked better this way than even venting through a top fan on the Tempest.



On the Antec 300 nice case you can't go wrong with it !!

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

VampyrByte

Yeah that does seem like the better soloution, My Hiper PSU doesnt have an 80mm fan at the back, which disappointed me when i bought it, but its uber quiet and what air is coming out of it is stone cold. Will definitly be getting one of these coolers when the financial situation permits.
When i buy one of these coolers, will i need to buy anything else to go with it, i know it only comes with the one fan, so i will get another fan.

Mac Daddy

Two things to note on the additional fan. It must be close to the same speed (2000rpm) as the 2 fans run push/pull. Secondly make sure it is 3 pin as the existing one is and power them from the same source. I just spliced them together as shown but some cases have extra connectors. These fans run at 100 percent so make sure you select a quiet one as well.



I did a quick search and there is a newer model of this the Hyper N520 which is a bit smaller but the Hyper212 has a better fan sleeve bearing and better fan airflow (69.69CFM with one fan).
Product Comparison - Cooler Master

This one I have I am putting aside to be used on the AMD system I am building as the cooler is also compatible with AM2 socket. Hope this helps

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen

VampyrByte

Yeah i will be getting the 212, as the N520 does not appear to be avaliable in the UK, If it is they have done a good job of hiding it for me? Will i need the Thermal Paste stuff, and if so, what will i need to clean the current crap off the CPU, ive read that alcohol is how you do it, but im guessing a drop of whiskey is not what they mean. If i seem like a noob, up until about 6 months ago i only had a low end system that couldnt produce heat if you set it on fire and thus, cooling was never an issue before i got this rig.

Mac Daddy

On the thermal paste the cooler comes with a tube provided by Cooler Master. I generally use Arctic Silver 5 but found the compound with the cooler worked great. On removing the compound I use methyl hydrate which we used to clean play heads and pinch rollers in cassette decks at work years ago ... isopropyl rubbing alcohol will also work fine.

BTW I think you are doing just fine with this and picking it up quickly. If I can be of any more help just post back and good luck

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"My mom said the only reason men are alive is for lawn care and vehicle maintenance." - Tim Allen